Making The Proper Repair Of Walls And Ceilings Using stucco screws

Stucco screws

Stucco screws (Portland cement plaster) is sometimes removed from a building to determine if the proper flashing has been installed, replace leaky windows, repair water-damaged timber framing members, or other reasons that would require removal of the stucco around the windows. Removal procedures may vary based on substrate, framework, and general repair plans. The following procedure outlined is for removing and replacing cement stucco around windows on wood-framed walls. This guide is limited to stucco removal and replacement and is not specific to the installation of windows and related flashing. There are various types and styles of windows and a variety of methods for flashing. This document is intended to focus on cement and batten plastering work for repair.

It is important to determine the expectations of the building owner and inform him of the finishing options. Finishing options for repairs around windows depend on the degree of desire for the appearance of the finish and should be discussed before work begins. The following will help with some decisions, options, and help clear up the confusion for all parties involved.

Evaluation

Qualified persons should conduct a complete evaluation of the exterior plaster before making any decisions on the final extent of the repairs. An important element that is needed to determine the full scope of stucco repairs is the type of finish coat (acrylic or cement) of the building and the general condition of the walls. Has the building been painted and what type of paint was used? Buildings with elastomeric paint will limit repair options.

EXTRACTION OF THE STUCCO

Stucco screws removal can create a lot of dust; Protective clothing, eye protection, and a respirator are always recommend. The best way to remove stucco is to cut the stucco with a power-saw using a masonry blade. The sheet should be place just below the full thickness of the stucco membrane, usually 3/4 inch. This will protect the underlying weather-resistant (WR) membrane from damage.

Masonry blades wear out quickly and the blade depth will need to be adjusted frequently. Stucco cuts should be approximately 12-24 inches from the window frame. Vertical cuts may be further from the window as they must reach the next frame member (stud). Once the saw cuts are complete, a cold chisel can be place in the saw cut and use to break or fracture the last remaining thickness of uncut plaster. The stucco can then be remove from the wall with minimal damage to the underlying WR membrane. For large removal areas, it is suggest to cut the stucco into squares that can be easily handled.

In some rare cases, the WR membrane can adhere to the back of the stucco. In these cases, it will be necessary to remove the stucco back to the point where the stucco is not adhering to the WR membrane.

Cut stucco edge

The cut stucco edge will be straight and smooth, it is recommend that the edges be irregular and rough. This will produce a better bond (bond) between the new patch and the existing stucco and can minimize the possibility of a separation crack. A hammer can be use to chip small sections, leaving some of the metal strip expose if possible.

The stucco method for repair work is an absolute must for people in the maintenance field. Holes in the wall seem to happen. Cracks in drywall ceilings can be a nightmare to repair. Anyone who has owned an apartment building knows the value of someone with the ability to make these repairs.

When you have a hole in the wall or ceiling, the first thing to do is fill the hole with something so that the stucco doesn’t fall off. After filling the hole with backing, use plaster or Sheetrock compound to fill the hole even or slightly above the wall surface. A 6-inch putty knife is great to start with.

Drywall tape

Next, apply drywall tape over the hole and run the edge over at least several inches. Use the putty knife to push the tape into the wet mud. Apply a second coat of compound or plaster over the tape. Now we wait.

Your repair is dry when it turns completely white, do not attempt to sand or smooth it while it dries. This will only make a mess that you will have to sand down later. You will have plenty of time to get it right on the next layer.

Apply another coat of your product over the first. This time use a ten-inch putty knife and spread the layer you put past the edge of the previous layer. First, pull the knife through the repair center. On the next pass, half of your patch and half of your patch will remain to exert a little more pressure on the middle of your patch, this will soften the edge.

Crack repairs

Stucco screws

If you have a severely crack roof, this type of repair can be use to apply a thin coat to a small area or an entire roof. Crack repairs can be the same way we repair the hole. A vinyl adhesive caulk can take the place of our newspaper. This will help prevent cracks from reappearing. The tape is also not necessary with this method.

If you have a loose cast. Rooftop washers, as they are call, are available at most hardware stores as well as construction supply houses. This is a large bevel fender washer with a hole in the center. Using a Sheetrock screw, they can pull loose plaster back onto their lathes. These little beauties can turn a torn job into a repair job, saving thousands of dollars.

Stucco has been use to protect and decorate the exterior and interior walls and ceilings for many centuries. Stucco is available in dozens of textures, thousands of colors, and is currently the coating of choice for most new construction and remodeling or restoration projects.

The two main categories of exterior stucco that span dozens of different systems are Hard Coat Stucco and EIFS (Exterior Insulation and Finish System). It is the prefer system for residential or multi-family construction and is increasingly being use for commercial projects as it is more economical.

Hard coat stucco

This is typically applied in 2-3 coats with a cementitious base coat. Two commonly used hard coat stucco systems are called one-coat stucco and three coat stucco. Traditional three-coat stucco consists of two coats of a cement base and a finish coat. One coat stucco is actually a two-coat process, but instead of two base coats, it consists of a cementitious base coat with a finish coat. In recent decades, One Coat Stucco has become much more popular simply because of the cost. The materials used and the application process are practically the same for both systems, with the exception of One Coat Stucco which takes fewer steps and less time. The design ability and performance between the two systems are also the same, although three-coat stucco is typically stronger and cracks less under most circumstances.

The topcoat application of both hard coat systems is the same. Colored cement or “colored stucco” finishes were the popular choice over three-coat stucco for most of the 20th century. It is simply a mixture of cement, lime, sand, and pigment. It is inexpensive and easy to apply, however, if the base coat cracks the finish will almost certainly crack. Colored stucco stains easily, is difficult to repair, and allows water to pass freely through it (which can be good or bad depending on the part of the country where the system is applied).

Painted stucco has been around for almost as long and is the majority of finishes in use today. The Painted Stucco is the same mix of materials minus the color, so it is applied the same and will get all the textures that the full-color stucco will have. The final step with Painted Stucco is the paint application. Paint, or as some like to call “siding,” will look more vibrant and easier to patch. Color options are wide and it is important that a good quality stucco paint is used. The most desired stucco finish today is acrylic stucco or acrylic finish. Some will call this system synthetic stucco, which is correct as it is a synthetic finish, however, it is not a synthetic system.

Acrylic Finish

Acrylic Finish is available in as many colors as a paint and has the same chemical composition as paint, but is a much thicker application. This raises the cost of the overall system but offers many benefits that the other two finishes do not. Acrylic stucco will cover most fine cracks and will not allow water to freely enter the system, which is a great benefit in freeze/thaw zones. Acrylic stucco will maintain its appearance and generally require no maintenance for many years, while painted stucco must be repainted and repaired in a few years. Colored stucco stains easily, will show all the cracks, and is very difficult to repair.

Applying Exterior Stucco

Stucco screws

Exterior stucco application is a simple project that any homeowner can do if they are willing to get their hands dirty. This will save you money and any potential contractor related frustration. There are only four steps to applying stucco finishes to the exterior of a home. These include preparing the wall, scraping the coat, wetting the mortar, and the finish coat.

The first thing to do when applying exterior stucco is to prepare the wall. Make sure the wall you have chosen to apply stucco to is a solid backing and not one that is not strong enough to hold the stucco. Stucco is primarily cement, so the backing needs to be strong enough to support it. When applying stucco on concrete, brick, or block, brush the concrete seam first. Let the joint dry completely. Then apply the stucco to the wall. If you are applying stucco to a wooden wall, you will need to use roofing felt, netting, and apply the scratch coat.

After applying exterior stucco to the concrete joint, it will scratch the first coat. Don’t start scratching a wall and then move to another area. Once you start a wall, be sure to complete it. The best tool for scraping stucco finishes is a plasterer’s rake. Be sure to scratch the surface of the mortar to a depth of approximately 1/8 inch. It is best to run the tool in long lines across the stucco surface.

The stucco surface of the house must remain damp. As with any type of concrete or mortar product, slow, wet curing will provide the greatest durability. This coating should cure for a minimum of 36 hours but can take up to 48 hours. The best way to keep the material in the house moist is by spraying it with a garden hose. If it’s hot outside, you may need to spray your stucco more than you would on a cooler day.

You must apply a finish coat Stucco screws when applying exterior stucco. Some people only use one coat, but it is best to apply a topcoat. When top-coating, use a flat trowel and apply up to a ¼-inch coat. If you are painting stucco or want to add powder pigment, add the pigment before applying the stucco to the side of the house. Make sure to finish whatever texture you choose to apply completely to the area. Wait several days for the stucco to cure and mist the surface occasionally to allow the curing process to slow down. The finishing touches of the stucco finish require you to apply caulking around the doors and window edges. If you plan to paint the stucco, you should wait up to six weeks before applying it to the concrete.